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In this project, I will be upgrading my Furrion Backup (Observation) camera system to the second generation Furrion S Camera system. This is actually an upgrade for my RV, but the initial installation steps are similar, especially if your RV is factory pre-wired for the Furrion Sharkfin camera. Unfortunately, the Vision S system is NOT compatible with the Vision 1 ( or Vision 2 system, so the upgrade includes replacing the monitor and camera. There are several options in the camera system, including choice of displays and cameras. They are all interchangeable, so you can purchase the system ala-carte or a 3 or 4 camera system. There are 6 different versions of the base camera system:
Multi-Camera systems:
Optional cameras:
With all of the choices, it might seem a bit innodating at first, so we will examine each system in a bit of detail. First and foremost, decide how many cameras you want. If you only need a single camera (such as a backup camera), simply chose the kit with the size of display you desire (4.3", 5", or 7"). If you need a multiple camera system, you must chose either the 5" or 7" monitor-based system as the 4.3" monitor does not support multiple cameras. There are two choices for the backup camera. Either Sharkfin or Red Clearance Light camera can be used for the rear camera. The Sharkfin camera is the only one that can be used for the door (or other location). Therefore, if your RV is pre-wired from the factory for a Sharkfin camera, then that would be the obvious choice. Otherwise, the Red Clearance Light camera is somewhat easier to install as it simply replaces the center red clearance light on your RV, and is powered by the running lights.
These days, the preferred wiring scheme for the camera systems is to wire the cameras to the clearance lights. This does require you to turn your tow vehicle's headlights on, but most owners see that as a safety feature, and not an issue. If you install the 4-camera system with door camera, you will want to power that camera independantly as the 5" and 7" cameras include a desk mount bracket so you can bring the monitor into the RV for monitoring the camera while occupying the RV.
 Running-Light powered single Camera System
 And to make matters worse, the SAE standard 7-pin wiring connector uses a different color code than the RV 7-pin wiring color code. The SAE 7-pin and 4-pin wiring color code does match, but is different than the RV Standard. However, at least the pin-outs vs. function is the same with both 7-pin RV and SAE color codes, so to that degree they are compatible. Just be aware that when tracing wires, the color codes might differ as to their function.
Running-Light powered three Camera System
For the four camera system with a door camera, you will have to at least run some wiring. Ideally you would have an independant circuit with a power switch so you can turn the camera on and off.
 Running-Light powered four Camera System
Project video.
"Door" camera options.During my original installation, I added a Rear, Left, and Right camera, and did not utilize a door camera. The door camera is intended to be a security camera, but it does require potential deconstruction of the wall to wire the camera. However, there are other options that can be utilized for the door camera if the camera housing was re-designed to allow mounting on horizontal as well as vertical surfaces.
This was the original reason I purchased a 3D printer... I can create a custom horizontal-mount housing. You can download the template file for this housing from my 3D Templates Page. The template is a standard .STL file that you can use to print if you own a 3D printer, or send to a 3D Print service. The 3D Template page also includes ideas for using a 3D printing service.
You will also need a 3D printed dome bracket. The two parts in combination will allow mounting the camera horizontally either on the top or bottom surface. The bracket attaches to the dome with simple sheet metal screws. Be careful you don't over-tighten the screws as you can strip them out. Unless you know that your 3D Printing filament is UV rated, I would recommend painting the dome and bracket, which should provide a degree of UV protection.
You will have to disassemble the "Sharkfin" camera to remove the camera from the housing. Then the camera will fit into the new housing. Rather than permanently mounting the housing, I elected to use 90lb magnets to mount the camera. At highway speeds, the magnets are strong enough to prevent any movement. I elected to mount the camera on the pin-box to assist in hitching, but also to provide a visible means to prevent turning the truck too sharply and smacking the back of the truck's cab with the nose of the RV (i.e. short-bed truck). This can be easily accomplished by "witness" marks on the pin-box and hitch of the truck. Look for a future modification where I will be adding witness targets to the fifth-wheel hitch.
Wiring. While the other cameras are attached to the RV's running lights (requiring attachment to the tow vehicle and lights turned on), the hitch camera should be wired independantly to a 12V source. Obviously, if you are using the camera to hitch the truck, you need to power the camera prior to attaching the 7-pin wiring harness. I 3D printed a switch housing to facilitate wiring the camera switch.br clear=all> As well, if you intend on using the camera as a security camera, you will also want to have power available to the camera when not hitched to the tow vehicle.
Hitch Cam video.
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