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Lippert's Ground Control 3.0 Leveling System.


Lippert's Ground Control 3.0 Leveling system is a reliable electric jack leveler that can make your RV experience a lot easier. However, it is not perfect, and this page will illustrate how I use my system, and the pitfalls I avoid. The biggest limitation to the leveling system is that it can only level to within +/- 2.5deg, which means if you have a very unlevel campsite, you will have to use leveling blocks.

If you attempt to Autolevel on unlevel ground exceding the 2.5Deg limitation, you could get an "out-of-stroke" error, lifting wheels off the ground, or other abnormalities.

You want to avoid those problems, especially the "out-of-stroke" error. It has been my experience that after experiencing one of those errors, the system goes "brain-dead", and could potentially damage your RV due to uneven stresses from failure to level properly.

What is an out-of-stroke error anyway? When the leveler has reached it's end of travel before the RV is level, and it cannot go any further, the system will generate an out-of-stroke error for that cylinder. Had a sufficient number of leveling blocks been placed under the cylinder, it would not have reached the end of it's travel and generated the error.

The notion that you no longer have to carry leveling blocks with a leveling system is a myth. Unless the ground is within 2.5deg of level, you will need to use blocks.

For a 30ft long RV that is 8.5ft wide, 2.5Deg allows 4.5" of slope left-to-right, and 15" front-to-back. And that does not include the height the levelers are at in storage mode.

The best practice then is to treat the leveling process like you would if you did not have levelers... that is, use blocks to get the RV as level as possible, then fine tune the level with the leveling system.

From experience (meaning this is not in the manual), I have noticed that after an out-of-stroke error on any cylinder, that the Autolevel function on my RV goes whacko. Sometimes it will level high, level with one jack off the ground, level with wheels off the ground, and any combination of zombie levels.

The only cure for that is to perform a zero-calibration to reset the level point. In fact, my recommendation is when you get an out-of-stroke error (or anytime you experience a zombie level), immediately perform a zero-calibration.

Prior to performing the zero-calibration, you must ensure the RV is actually level. This is usually accomplished by going into the manual mode, and pressing the Front/Rear/Left/Right buttons on the control panel until the system is leveled.

While this procedure is covered in the manual, the basic setup for manual mode is:

  • Depress the UP/DN Arrows on the control panel (upper left) until the display indicates MANUAL mode.
  • Depress ENTER to enter the manual mode.
  • Note the display may be blinking one or more yellow LEDs in the "pyramid" A blinking yellow indicates that side is high. However, if the leveler is in zombie mode, the LEDs may not be accurate.
  • Using a spirit level, depress the Front/Rear/Right/Left buttons to change the level of the RV.
  • Depressing a direction button will raise that side by running both jacks in tandem. For example, if depressing the FRONT button, both left and right landing gear will extend. If depressing the RIGHT button, the right landing gear and right-rear leveling jack will extend.
  • Depressing the RETRACT button on the control panel will cause that side to lower.
  • Continue raising and lowering jack pairs until you are satisfied the RV is level - confirming with a spirit level.



Attempt leveling only with the slides in. If the slides are out and the level is off, they could jamb. Likewise, do not extend the slides until the RV is level.


Once you are satisfied the RV is level, turn the Ground Control panel off. Then depress the FRONT switch 5 times, immediately followed by the REAR switch 5 times. The control panel should come back on and ask if you want to use this new level point. Acknowledge with ENTER; Cancel ower OffR OFF.





Optional Remote. There are two versions of the Ground Control system sold as far as I can tell. The Aftermarket version which seems to always include a wireless remote, and the OEM version (that is installed at the RV factory) which may or may not include the remote. By not including the remote, the RV mfg saves $200, so many systems ship without the remote.

However, if you have an OEM version (without remote) and if it has a little black antenna on the control unit, you may be in luck. You can buy a replacement remote (LC358601) from eTrailer.Com and other retailers and simply synch it with your Ground Control system.





Ground Control Aftermarket Manual





Last reviewed and/or updated Aug 20, 2017