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Adding the RVLock Wireless, Keyless door lock to a RV.

 

Ever since we locked ourselves out of our rig, I have been looking into these locks (luckily I left a window open so I was able to gain access by sliding the screen back and climbing through the window). But I am not getting any younger to do such things, and leaving an open window is not prehaps the most secure thing to do.

We often go to the beach, and I just hate taking a set of keys with me when we do so. Up until now, we have been putting a key into a secret location on the outside of the rig, but that has it's own risks as well.

As luck would have it, RVLock had a huge sale on their locks on Black Friday 2016, by knocking almost $100 off the normal price (and they run sales a few times throughout the year as well). So if you are interested, wait until they have a sales event. If you are interested, you can subscribe to their newsletter to get the sales events (you can always unsubscribe later - or better yet - use a throw-away email address).

There are several different versions of the locks. Ver 3.0 (which has a remote keypad), Ver 4.0 which has an integrated keypad and available in left and right hand versions, a version for motorhomes (they typically use a different door), and even a baggage door version.

I bought Ver 4.0, and it came with the door lock, a set of keys, and a wireless key fob... which means there are three different methods of accessing the RV. The lock itself is powered by 4 AA batteries, which means if they ever become completely discharged - you still have a key backup.

The key fob has two channels, so you can control two doors, or a door and baggage latch.

One thing I do like about RVLock is you can buy spare parts, such as the switch membrane and electronics board. That way, you can keep the lock in operation for years to come.

RVLock makes the claim that they fit most doors. However, you may need a gasket if you are replacing a Bauer lock. If the opening of your existing lock is 2.75"wide x 3.75"tall, and if your door is 1.5" thick, the lock should fit.

However, when I installed my lock, I found that the upper right corner of the hole in the door was slightly exposed. I also purchased the "gasket" that is supposed to cover any gaps, but it was more like a sticker than a gasket. That so far is the only downside I see to the lock. It would have been far better if they made the outline of the lock a bit larger rather than "Mickey Mousing" a sticker/gasket.

Installation consists of two basic steps. The installation and progrmming. Installation was not difficult other than the afore mentioned gap I needed to cover. I did have to clean out a bit of the styrofoam in the door and trim the opening a bit, but this is simply fit-and-finish type work.

Programming was easy too, but there are a couple of things that is confusing in the yellow page of instructions.

The instructions have you program the fobs first, and if you want to change the default access code, second. However, if you change the access code, the fobs will no longer work until you reprogram those as well.

The instructions lead you to believe that you turn the FOB switch on just for programming... however, that switch must be on for the fobs to work. More or less, it is a fob lockout switch. If the switch is on, the fobs will unlock the door, if the switch is off, they won't. This allows you to lock-out the fobs should they become misplaced or stolen.

 


Project video.

 

Repair Parts


Switch Board

Main Board

Keypad Membrane

Lever Kit

Most of the main components are available as spare parts, which should keep your lock operating for years to come. These parts can be ordered from the RVLock Website.

 

References:

RVLock Website

 

           


 


Last reviewed and/or updated May 10, 2017